Passage to Australia

 

 

 

 

 

 

Crossing to Australia

 

It was getting cold in New Zealand and after six months we decided to head for warmer weather in Australia. On May 8, 2003 we left Opua to cross the Tasman Sea bound for Brisbane in the land of Oz. We arrived at Scarborough Marina on May 19.

5/8, Leaving Opua, Day 0

34 48.656 S, 173 58.786 E, day 0, passage to Brisbane, Australia, 32 miles out, 1274 nm to go

 

This morning we got up, got nice hot showers and prepared to depart. Rich and I went and checked out with customs. We then went to the small grocery store to get a newspaper and a few items such as some fresh bread. Meanwhile Jesse and Sarah took off the sail cover and got the halyards ready.

 

Downtown Opua with grocery store and post office

 

After a light breakfast we motored to the fuel dock. Pumped out the holding tank - at least the pump worked for 2/3 of the job, the rest I will do later. After that we did our fuel up. It was a messy job since the fuel nozzle only works at a high speed so it is hard to regulate the fuel flow. It bit of diesel spilled, always fun to clean up.

 

At 11:20 am we cast off and headed out the channel from Opua. Even though most of the morning was nice and sunny we did have a rain shower as we motored along.

 

Now it is 6pm and we are motor-sailing (more motoring with the mainsail) and we have the second reef in the main. Not that there is a lot of wind but it is better to be reefed before dark. We had a dinner is rice with teriyaki beef that Rich had made yesterday. It was a nice repast.

 

The sun is set and I must check in on the radio.

 

Til tomorrow,

 

5/9, Day 1, Passage to Australia

32 47.932 s, 172 48.925 E, day 1, passage to Brisbane, Australia, 165 miles out, 1141 nm to go

 

Last night we did some sailing about 7 hours worth. Nice breeze but this morning is died and we have been motoring ever since. The wind has been 0-6 knots from WSW, N, NNW, N but not enough to sail in. A brief shower this morning but this afternoon it cleared and we had some sun. It is still chilly - we are wearing long underwear, fleece and foulies.

 

 

This morning during Sarah's watch, she and I saw a large pod of dolphins go by, about 15-20. It was fun to watch them. Since then we have seen nothing, zip, nada, zed, no boats, no dolphins, no nothing.

 

We are hoping that we will have more wind to sail in tomorrow. The plan is to pass south of Norfolk Island. We would stop but it is an open roadstead with no real place to anchor. Besides we would have to check in again at Brisbane.

 

We check in with Des on Russell Radio in the evenings at 7pm and then I check in with Gitana and a few folks on the Puddle Jump 8188 at 5:30 pm.

 

Rich is starting to feel better. Not quite up to snuff yet. Jesse is almost there. Sarah and I are doing great.

 

5/10, Day 2, Passage to Australia

31 09.354 S, 171 00.857 E, day 2, passage to Brisbane, Australia, 314 miles out, 992 miles to go

 

Today was another day of motor-sailing. This morning the seas were very gentle to we transferred fuel from the jerry jugs to the aft tank. It is a little awkward and of course the diesel smell does not help.

 

The sun was out and the skies cleared for a while. I even put on shorts and a t-shirt to enjoy it. Now I am back to my long underwear!

 

A squall came through so we sailed a bit. Now the winds have died but the seas are choppy so the ride is a little unpleasant.

 

We are going more westerly now and plan to pass south of Norfolk Island.

 

5/11, Day 3, Passage to Australia

30 16.591 S, 168 35.374 E, day 3, passage to Brisbane, Australia, 452 miles out, 854 miles to go

 

And it was another day of motoring. The water looks like mercury it is so calm and airless. Sometime during the night a flying fish hopped on board but didn't make it back into the water in time. We found him dried up on deck.

 

For Mother's day I was able to sleep in this morning and Sarah took part of my morning watch. How very thoughtful!

 

We are passing to the south of Norfolk Island. The mutineers of HMS Bounty were here for a while before moving on to Pitcairn's Island. We would stop but there is no good anchorage.

 

We hope that the trade winds will start to fill in tomorrow.

 

5/12, Day 4, Passage to Australia

29 16.443 S, 166 04.070 E, day 4, passage to Brisbane, 598 miles out, 708 miles to go

 

Another day of motoring. I am beginning to see a trend in my position updates.... It was another day of light and variable winds, from WSW, SW, SSW, and now S. Nothing on the horizon as you look 360 degrees around the boat.

 

We are reading a lot. Sarah is on her fourth book. I just read about how the Irish saved civilization after the fall of the Roman Empire. Rich is now reading that book. Mandu has settled into napping. Jesse is listening to CDs.

 

Imagine driving across Kansas in a Winnebago on a straight road with no other cars, no exits, nothing but wheat fields as far as the eye can see and you can't stop for 1300 miles! It's like a passage to Brisbane!

 

The grib files promise SE winds tomorrow. We'll see.

 

5/13, Day 5, Passage to Australia

28 50.679 s, 163 35105 e, day 5, passage to Brisbane, 745 miles out, 561 miles to go

 

Early this morning we started sailing. First with the staysail and the main (2nd reef), then we furled the staysail. With just the main we are averaging just over 6 knots. Not too bad. It is nice and quiet without the engine. Unfortunately the seas have built so it is rock and rolly.

 

Imagine you are still in the Winnebago, the shocks are so bad you roll back and forth and side to side randomly at about 10 degrees a pop. To further simulate the current conditions, the Winnebago is a convertible and you have the top down and the weather is overcast and about 60 degrees. Are we having fun yet?

 

5/14, Day 6, Passage to Australia

28 03.797 S, 161 30.045 E, passage to Brisbane, 865 miles out, 441 miles to go

 

Last night we reefed the main to the 3rd reef. Later that evening the winds were 25-30 gusting to 35. We tried to jybe but the 3rd reef clew came undone from the boom. The wind caught the sail and pulled it out of the lazy jacks. With a lot of effort we got the main tied down and decided to just go with the staysail. We are still sailing with staysail only, averaging 5.8 to 6 knots. Rich and I just finished retying the reef line and getting the main back in order. Of course we hit a squall in the middle of this operation. Seas are now around 12 feet from the east, winds 25-32 from the east and ENE.

 

The Winnebago is having a wild ride. We roll from side to side, at least 20 degrees. Everything in the cabinets rattle. The glasses in the rack make a lot of noise along with the pots and pans and anything in the metal galley sinks. Yes it is quieter with the engine off, but not by much! Oh yes, it rains every so often. Do you have your foulies on?

 

Last night we encountered a commercial shipping vessel and tried to hail them to ask their course and if they saw us on radar. No response. Asleep at the wheel?

 

5/15, Day 7, Passage to Australia

26 45.767 s, 159 16.925 e, passage to Brisbane, 1016 miles out, 337 miles to go

 

Last night and today were pretty much like yesterday, winds were 25-35 and seas are 12-14 feet. Very bumpy uncomfortable ride. We are continuing northwesterly and the winds are predicted to come to the north so then we will bare off to Moreton Island and Brisbane.

 

During Rich's watch he talked to a passenger liner that was passing by and a commercial shipping vessel. At least they responded.

 

I want to apologize to those of you who usually watch our progress on Yotreps. I have not been sending the data in to them so you will not see us there. (to be honest - I forgot!)

 

5/16, Day 8, Passage to Australia

26 37.802 S, 157 40.403 E, passage to Brisbane, 1115 miles out, 251 miles to go.

 

It was a dark and stormy night....

 

The seas were white under the moon that peaked through the clouds against a dark sky. The winds continued to build and the seas along with it, the predicted gale like a 1956 Buick Roadmaster, barrelling down the highway coming towards us. The seas were up to 20 feet high over the radar arch and above our flag. They would crash into the side of the boat with a sickening thud and then a river would run down the deck. The boat would heel and sometimes the jerry jugs and the solar panels on the side would be awash. The winds were steady at 43 knots and would climb up to 54 knots. The halyards are banging furiously against the mast. We had reefed the staysail to just a small area remaining to help steady the boat and help the autopilot. The speed over ground reached over 8.5 knots as we would lurch and ride through the seas. Mandu was wide-eyed and anxious about any sound. Some of Jesse's books tumbled off his cabinet, out of his room and onto the floor of the companionway. I taped the sliding cabinet enclosures in the galley so that the contents would not come spilling forth. I also taped the wine rack and checked other storage places. Rich stared mesmerized at instruments as the speeds climbed.

 

At 6 am it was still going on. The rain was coming horizontally, soaking everything and everyone. Finally around 8:30 am the winds had subsided and we decided to start the motor. I turned the key Rich pushed the start button but nothing. It would not turn over. The batteries had been depleted by the hardworking autopilot. We turned everything off. The volts were 10.5. Not enough. Rich went out and slipped the line off the wind generator. It started to turn in the wind, the voltage level rose, 11.1, then 11.3, then 11.5. I turned the key on again Rich pushed the button, the engine roared to life.

 

We have been motoring since. The winds are too low and from the wrong direction. We still have some distance to cover before we are there.

 

But we survived the gale!

 

5/17, Day 9, Passage to Australia

26 24.012 S, 156 01.937 E, passage to Brisbane, 1249 miles out, 197 miles to go.

 

Last night was a contrast to the night before. The seas were down to 6 feet. The winds were in the 10-15 knot range but... in the wrong direction, they were now from the west, southwest, where we want to go. We motor-sailed for most of the night, trying to be conservative in our fuel use.

 

Around 3:30 am, Rich saw a red flare go off in the near distance. All hands on deck we have a possible emergency, is someone in trouble? We marked the position and approximate location of the flare and changed course to head for it. We called on the VHF but no response, from anyone. We got out our high power lights and started looking. I got on the SSB and called the emergency station. I talked to someone from Auckland Maritime Patrol on New Zealand and they contacted their Australian counterparts who called me. We were advised to check the area to see if we could determine what happened. They would call me back in 15 minutes. We motored 4 miles in the direction of the sighted flare. Everyone was looking for some sign. Nothing. Just water and sky and clouds. I reported our findings or lack of same to the Australian maritime patrol. They released us from our task and indicated that they had other sightings and attributed it to meteor shower activity. Humph.

 

We returned to our previous course. We are not convinced it was a meteor but we hope we did not miss someone who was in trouble.

 

This morning we brought out all the sails and turned off the motor. We are covering a lot of miles but not all in the direction we want to go. We sailed 134 miles so far today but we are only 54 miles closer to the mark! But the sailing is great!

 

In the example of the Winnebago. You can see the mountain ahead that you want to climb but you don't have enough fuel and you can't drive straight up the side. So you have to use the switchbacks and go back and forth to get there. You need to save enough fuel to maneuver in the parking lot.

 

Well, it's time for pizza. I will send this in a little bit.

 

5/18, Day 10, Passage to Australia

26 51.192 S, 154 42.090 E, passage to Brisbane, 1363 miles out, 98.5 miles to go!

 

Are we there yet? ...... No!

 

The winds are 0-15 knots, from the west. In other words, in our face! We have been tacking back and forth slowly getting closer. We have wind waves against us making it a bouncy, splashy ride.

 

 

We did a little motoring but we need to conserve the remaining fuel. With the waves and winds against us, motoring would do little to get us there any sooner.

 

At this point, morale is low.

 

We did eee some whales heading in the same direction and took it as a good sign.

 

We can hardly wait to be there, check in, tie up, wash down the boat and take some much deserved showers!

 

Soon?

 

5/19, Day 11, Arrival in Brisbane, Australia

27 11.671 S, 153 06.357 E, arrive Brisbane, 1537 miles from Opua, 0 miles to go!

 

We're here! We tied up to the quarantine dock at 8:30pm Australian time. Now to take showers, have dinner and get a good night's sleep.

 

Good night!

 

The friendly glow of the Quarantine sign

 

Update

We traveled 1537 nm in 11 days, 10 hours and 25 minutes. This included 5 days of motoring, 6 days of sailing. Winds from 0-50 knots, Seas from 0-4 meters.

 

Passages